Laguna Esmeralda Hike, Ushuaia: Trail, Mud & Tips
Planning the Laguna Esmeralda hike in Ushuaia? My experience of the muddy 9 km trail, hiking independently, what to pack and reaching the lagoon.
Stafa
11/12/20269 min read
When I first saw pictures of Laguna Esmeralda, it was the colour of the water that caught my attention. This incredible blue-green lagoon surrounded by mountains near Ushuaia looked like somewhere I had to see for myself.
I went expecting the lagoon to be the highlight. By the time we finished the hike, though, I realised the journey had become just as memorable as the destination.
We took a wrong turn, walked through muddy sections that looked more like a swamp, watched my phone battery struggle in the cold and even managed to spot a beaver.
It turned into one of those travel experiences where the unexpected moments are what you remember most.
Laguna Esmeralda hike: what to know before you go
Laguna Esmeralda is one of the best-known hikes near Ushuaia, in Argentina's Tierra del Fuego region.
Here are the main things worth knowing before setting off:
Location: Approximately 18 kilometres outside Ushuaia, near National Route 3.
Distance: Around 9 kilometres return.
Duration: Usually four to five hours for the complete hike.
Difficulty: Moderate, although mud, snow, ice and changing weather can make it more challenging.
Trail conditions: Forest paths, wet ground, muddy sections and open mountain scenery.
Guide: We hiked independently, but a guide can be a sensible option depending on your experience and the conditions.
Our walk to the lagoon took around two hours, although how long it takes you will depend on your pace, how often you stop and the weather.
My biggest advice? Don't underestimate the terrain just because the hike isn't particularly long.
We nearly went the wrong way at the beginning
We decided to hike Laguna Esmeralda independently rather than joining a tour. From what we'd understood, it would take around two hours to reach the lagoon and another two hours to return. That sounded straightforward enough.
Then, almost immediately, I got too excited and we took the wrong turn. Not the best start!
Once we realised what had happened, we corrected ourselves and started paying much more attention to the trail markings. There were arrows along the route, but it wasn't the kind of hike where I felt I could completely switch off and assume everything would be obvious. It actually made me think about how dependent we've become on our phones when travelling.
We're so used to Google Maps, GPS and mobile data helping us find our way. But when you're out in Patagonia, surrounded by mountains, you shouldn't automatically assume you'll always have a reliable connection.
We eventually got ourselves back on track, but it was a useful reminder to pay attention to where you're going.
The trail was muddier than I expected
One thing became obvious quite quickly: Laguna Esmeralda isn't a hike for nice trainers.
Parts of the trail were wet, muddy and boggy. At times I was looking down at the ground thinking it looked more like a swamp than a proper walking path. I wouldn't describe the hike as extreme mountaineering, but the terrain can make a big difference to how comfortable the experience feels.
If you're planning to do it, I'd definitely recommend hiking shoes or boots with good grip. I'd also bring something waterproof, warm layers and a spare pair of socks if you have room.
The weather around Ushuaia can change quickly, and conditions can be very different depending on when you visit. In snowy or icy conditions, the hike needs additional preparation and may require specialist equipment or a guide.
For us, the mud was the biggest challenge. But once I stopped worrying about keeping my shoes clean, I actually started enjoying the whole experience much more.
The scenery made the walk worthwhile
Before starting, Laguna Esmeralda had been the destination and the trail was simply how we were going to get there. Once we were walking, that changed. We'd pass through forest and then suddenly come out into an open area with mountains, wetlands and water stretching out ahead of us.The scenery kept changing, and there always seemed to be something else worth stopping to look at. That's one of the things I love about trekking.
When you're travelling by car or taking organised transport between attractions, sometimes you miss all the little things in between. Walking forces you to experience a place gradually.
You notice how the landscape changes, you hear what's happening around you and you never really know what you might come across. I also loved the atmosphere between the hikers. People were walking back towards us from the lagoon, and nearly everyone said hello as they passed. Just a quick "hola" a smile and then everybody carried on.
It's nothing dramatic, but there's something nice about complete strangers from different parts of the world sharing the same experience.
Finally reaching Laguna Esmeralda
After walking for a while, we started wondering how much farther we had to go. We met some people heading back and asked them how long was left. They told us around twenty minutes. That sounded manageable, so we carried on.
The funny thing was that it felt like hardly any time had passed before Laguna Esmeralda suddenly appeared in front of us. And finally seeing it in person was absolutely worth the walk.
The water had that incredible blue-green colour I'd seen in photographs, surrounded by mountains and Patagonia's dramatic landscape. But arriving on foot made it feel different. By then we'd already taken the wrong turn, followed the trail markings, crossed muddy ground and spent a couple of hours watching the scenery change.
All those little experiences made reaching the lagoon feel much more rewarding. It wasn't just somewhere we'd arrived. It felt like somewhere we'd earned the chance to sit and enjoy.
Sometimes you have to put the camera away
Naturally, once we reached the lagoon, I started filming. I wanted to capture the colour of the water, the mountains and that first reaction when you finally see something you've been looking forward to. But after a while, I realised I needed to put my phone away.
When you create travel videos, it's easy to spend an entire experience thinking about getting the next shot. You're checking whether you've filmed enough, whether the camera is straight, what you're going to say next and whether you've missed anything. Sometimes you forget that you came to experience the place yourself.
Sitting there without constantly looking through a screen was one of my favourite parts of the day. Not every moment needs to become footage. Sometimes it's enough just to be there.
The cold was draining my phone battery
Something else surprised me while we were around the lagoon. My phone battery started dropping much faster than normal. I couldn't work out what was happening at first. I'd always associated phone battery problems with overheating, so seeing the cold affect it caught me off guard.
And when you're travelling, your phone becomes almost everything. It's your camera, map, communication device and sometimes your main source of information about where you are. Watching that battery percentage disappear while you're still on a hiking trail is a reminder not to rely completely on one device.
If I did Laguna Esmeralda again, I'd make sure my phone was fully charged, bring a reliable power bank and keep both protected from the cold when I wasn't using them.
I'd also download an offline trail map before leaving Ushuaia rather than relying on mobile signal throughout the hike.
I've written more about staying connected while travelling in my Staying Connected Abroad guide.
Having mobile data can be useful, but it shouldn't be your only navigation plan in the mountains.
We even spotted a beaver
Another unexpected moment from the hike was spotting a beaver. We'd heard there were beavers around the area, so naturally I wanted to see one. We spent some time watching the water without much happening. Then I noticed something moving in the distance. I started zooming in with the camera because I couldn't work out exactly what I was looking at. And there it was. A beaver!
I got genuinely excited because it wasn't something I'd expected to see. Once we'd spotted it, I started noticing other things around the water, including branches and parts of the landscape that appeared to have been changed by beaver activity.
It was one of those random travel moments that ends up staying with you. I'd gone to Laguna Esmeralda to see the lagoon, not to go looking for wildlife. But sometimes the things you weren't planning to see become some of your favourite memories.
Can you hike Laguna Esmeralda without a guide?
We did Laguna Esmeralda independently, and plenty of other hikers choose to do the same. There are trail markings, but that doesn't mean you should arrive unprepared.
I'd recommend checking the current weather and trail conditions before setting off and making sure you're comfortable navigating the route. It's also worth organising transport to and from the trailhead in advance.
The hike starts outside Ushuaia, and getting there is only half the question. After several hours of walking, possibly with muddy boots and tired legs, you don't want to be standing beside the road wondering how you're getting back into town. If you're not confident hiking independently, or conditions look difficult, going with a guide is a perfectly sensible decision.
There's no prize for making a hike unnecessarily complicated.
What I'd bring for the Laguna Esmeralda hike
If I were doing this hike again, I'd keep my packing practical.
Proper hiking shoes or boots with good grip.
Waterproof clothing and warm layers.
Enough drinking water for the whole hike.
Food or snacks.
A fully charged phone.
A power bank protected from the cold.
An offline trail map.
A small backpack for essentials.
Enough time to complete the walk comfortably before dark.
I'd also check the weather forecast and current trail information, especially if hiking outside the warmer months. For me, the most important things were suitable footwear, knowing where we were going and not underestimating the conditions. And I'd definitely leave enough time to enjoy the lagoon without feeling rushed.
Was Laguna Esmeralda worth the hike?
Absolutely. But not only because the lagoon was beautiful. At one point during the hike, I remember thinking about how far I'd travelled and how many things I've now been lucky enough to experience that I never imagined seeing when I was younger.
When you travel regularly, it's surprisingly easy for airports, hotels and new destinations to start feeling normal. I don't ever want to lose that excitement. Because travelling isn't really about collecting countries. Of course, I know how many places I've visited, but that's not what I remember afterwards. I remember people, situations and little moments that wouldn't mean anything on a list.
From Laguna Esmeralda, I remember taking the wrong turn, walking through the mud, strangers saying hello, the mountains appearing between the trees, finally reaching the lagoon and unexpectedly spotting a beaver.
I also remember putting my camera away and allowing myself to enjoy being there. That's what made the day special. So if you're planning to hike Laguna Esmeralda, definitely go for that incredible blue-green water. But don't spend the entire walk waiting to arrive.
Enjoy the forest, the mountains, the changing landscape and whatever unexpected moments happen along the way. There's a good chance those are the memories you'll take home.
Watch my Laguna Esmeralda hike
I filmed our experience while travelling through Ushuaia and Patagonia for Stafa Is Live.
If you want to see what the trail looked like, the muddy sections and our arrival at the lagoon, you can watch the adventure here.
Watch my Laguna Esmeralda hike on YouTube →
Laguna Esmeralda: frequently asked questions
How long does the Laguna Esmeralda hike take?
Most hikers allow around four to five hours for the return route, depending on conditions and how often they stop. We took approximately two hours to reach the lagoon.
How difficult is Laguna Esmeralda?
It's generally described as a moderate hike, but the muddy and wet terrain can make it more demanding than the distance suggests. Snow, ice and poor weather can significantly increase the difficulty.
Can you hike Laguna Esmeralda without a guide?
Yes, we did it independently. However, it's important to check current conditions, understand the route and organise transport. A guide may be advisable when conditions are more challenging or if you lack hiking experience.
How far is Laguna Esmeralda from Ushuaia?
The trailhead is approximately 18 kilometres from Ushuaia, along National Route 3. The hiking route itself is roughly 9 kilometres return.
What shoes should I wear?
I'd recommend proper hiking shoes or boots with good grip. Parts of the trail can be extremely muddy and wet, so ordinary trainers may not be comfortable or suitable.
Do you need mobile signal for the hike?
You shouldn't depend on having continuous mobile coverage. Download an offline trail map beforehand, carry backup power and make sure you can navigate without relying on a connection.
KEEP EXPLORING ARGENTINA
From muddy hiking trails to incredible landscapes, Argentina has so much to offer. If you enjoyed this journey through Patagonia, you can explore more of my travels and practical guides below.
Watch my Laguna Esmeralda adventure →
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